Ruaha Yetu

Destination Mjanja Shah

I fell in love with Ruaha from the very first time I visited this park, despite having explored many of Tanzania’s national parks, this southernmost gem has always held a special place in my heart.

The elders say that no matter where you go, it is the people who make a place feel like home. And I must admit, Ruaha feels like home to me, not just because of it’s wildlife and mesmerising landscapes, but because of the people.

Most tourists go on safari between July and late November which are the dry season. These months offer the best wildlife sightings, as animals gather around water sources making them easier to spot. During dry seasons the terrain is also more accessible, allowing a smooth and exciting safari experiences.

But I had chosen a different path. This time, I decided to visit Ruaha during the rainy season, when the park is lush and full of life in a different way.

On Sunday, March 2, 2025, I entered the park in the afternoon. It was the first day of Ramadan, a significant time for many, and a special day to begin this adventure. As always, I took my favourite spot in the front guide-seat of our rugged 1HZ long-wheelbase Land Cruiser, while Zakayo, our skilled game driver, handling the shift stick.

Having already made my park entry reservations through the TANAPA system, the process at the gate was swift. Within minutes, we were allowed in, greeted by the untamed beauty of Ruaha National Park.

Welcomed by Giants

That late afternoon, as we ventured deeper into the park, we were greeted by a breathtaking sight—a large herd of elephants grazing along our path. It was an unforgettable welcome to Ruaha.

The roof of the jeep was already open, and my visitors from the Caribbean eagerly stood tall to witness the majestic giants up close. Their excitement was undeniable, their eyes wide with wonder as they took in the sheer size and grace of these incredible creatures.

But then, the mood shifted.

One of the elephants, sensing that we had come a little too close, decided to send us a message. With a sudden burst of energy, it mock charged toward the jeep, flapping its ears and kicking up dust in a dramatic display of dominance.

Panic struck. My visitors, who had never been this close to wild elephants before, instinctively wanted to jump out of the car and run. One of them, in a hilarious moment of confusion, started shouting **”ndani ndani!”**—as if trying to command the elephants like a pack of misbehaving dogs! 😆

Zakayo and I quickly reassured them, holding back laughter as we explained that this was simply the elephants’ way of saying **”Welcome to the park.”** A mock charge is not an attack—it’s a warning. It’s how elephants remind humans to **respect their space** and **not push beyond the limits**.

Once they understood, their fear turned into pure awe. This experience—being so close to elephants that they could feel their presence, hear their deep rumbles, and witness their intelligence—became the highlight of their first day in Ruaha.

The Magic of Ruaha’s Park Bandas

As night fell, we settled into our bandas—simple yet special accommodations located right beside the Great Ruaha River. Spending the night here is unlike any other safari experience.

As I lay in bed, I could hear the deep grunts of hippos grazing nearby, their heavy footsteps rustling through the grass. Every now and then, a loud splash in the river signalled their movements.

But the most thrilling part of the night was the sound of nature’s untamed drama. In the distance, the eerie silence would suddenly be shattered by the deep, thunderous roars of lions. Sometimes, if you were lucky—or unlucky, depending on how you see it—you could witness a battle between giants. The chilling trumpets of distressed elephants echoed through the air, a sign that a pride of hungry lions had set their sights on a vulnerable calf.

Lying there, listening to the wild unfold around me, I felt a deep sense of gratitude. This was Ruaha—raw, unpredictable, and absolutely unforgettable.

And this was only the beginning of our adventure.

A New Dawn by the River

The next morning, I woke up early, as I always do when traveling with visitors. While they rested, I took the quiet moments before sunrise to plan the day’s safari, mentally mapping out possible routes. I also made a few calls to fellow guides in the park, gathering fresh updates on recent wildlife sightings. This way, our journey wouldn’t be left to chance—I wanted to ensure the best possible experience for my guests.

As dawn approached, I found myself by the river, taking in the breathtaking beauty of Ruaha at first light. The air was crisp, carrying the earthy scent of wet soil and morning dew. The sky was painted in soft hues of orange and gold, and the landscape bathed in the warm glow of a new day felt almost surreal.

Looking down toward the river, I noticed familiar shapes—at first appearing as large stone-like blocks scattered across the water. But as the light grew stronger, I smiled, realizing they were not stones at all.

They were crocodiles.

The mighty reptiles were slowly emerging from the water, making their way to the riverbanks, their ancient, armored bodies glistening under the first rays of sunlight. Some remained motionless, while others lazily shifted their positions, preparing to catch their last meal before the heat of the day set in.

There was something mesmerising about watching them—silent, patient, and perfectly adapted to their world. It was a reminder that in Ruaha, every moment, no matter how small, carried a story waiting to be told.

And so, as the sun finally broke over the horizon, I knew the day ahead would be another unforgettable chapter in our journey through this untamed wilderness.

The Hunt Along the River Drive

As we left the bandas that morning, the crisp air of Ruaha carried the scent of wet earth, a reminder of the rainy season’s lingering presence. About a mile into our drive, we spotted movement ahead. Three cats stood along the road, their lean frames silhouetted against the morning light.

We were the only ones on this river-drive route—no other jeeps in sight. As we approached, we could clearly see it was a lioness with her two juvenile males. Even from a distance, their empty bellies told us they were hungry, and their alert postures revealed they were in hunting mode.

As a guide, this is exactly what you hope for—a seamless safari experience where the wildlife appears naturally, without long waits. When game shows up effortlessly, visitors become overwhelmed with excitement, and the promise of Ruaha’s magic comes to life.

For half an hour, we watched the lions, observing their every movement. The young males occasionally crouched low, mimicking their mother’s hunting posture, while she remained laser-focused, scanning the landscape for potential prey.

Knowing how special this sighting was, I made a call to my fellow guides, inviting them to bring their visitors. “We have lions on the hunt,” I told them, knowing that no matter how many lions someone has seen in their lifetime, they would always want to see more.

The Unmatched Majesty of Simba

There is something about lions—something powerful, almost mythical. No matter how many times you encounter them, they command attention. Their presence is both intimidating and captivating. I have never quite understood the obsession people have with spotting lions, but I do know this—Simba reigns supreme in the wild.

They are powerful yet reserved, composed yet dominant. And if you dare stare directly into their eyes for too long, you might feel as if you are looking into something far beyond mere flesh and blood. They truly are the kings of the savannah.

As more jeeps arrived, the energy shifted. The lions, unbothered by the growing audience, continued their pursuit, moving stealthily along the river-drive route. We followed, along with a convoy of excited visitors, each eager to witness the hunt unfold.

A Hunt in the Rainy Season

Despite their hunger and determination, the lions faced an unfortunate challenge—the season itself. Unlike in the dry months when animals gather around water sources, the rainy season scatters them deep into the bush. Water is abundant everywhere, so prey no longer needs to frequent the riverbanks.

The lions pressed forward, their muscles tensed, their eyes locked onto invisible targets hidden within the lush, green terrain. But time passed, and no hunt was successful. Still, the mere sight of these powerful creatures on the prowl made for an unforgettable experience.

This was, without a doubt, the best sighting of the day, so we returned to base for breakfast.

A Battle for the Free Meal

The sun in Ruaha can be relentless, beating down on the golden grasslands with an unforgiving intensity. But out here, the game must go on.

After breakfast, we set out for another drive, eager to uncover more of the park’s hidden stories. Word had spread among the guides about a dead elephant somewhere along the route to Mwagusi. The real spectacle, however, wasn’t just the carcass—it was the ten lions fighting over this unexpected feast.

As we drove, I turned to my visitors and asked, “Do you believe that lions don’t scavenge?”

They nodded confidently. “Yes, lions are hunters, not scavengers.”

I smiled. “Let’s go find out.”

The Scene of the Feast

As we arrived, the chaos of the scene unfolded before us. Three lions had just been chased away from the carcass, standing at a distance, watching intently with frustration in their eyes. They weren’t ready to give up just yet.

At the center of it all lay the massive elephant, its lifeless form now the source of an impending battle. Beside it, two elder male lions rested, their bellies visibly swollen from their feast. They weren’t just full—they were guarding their meal, their heavy eyes occasionally scanning the surroundings for any potential intruders.

I turned to my visitors. “Now, tell me… do lions scavenge?”

Their silence was answer enough.

The Inevitable War

This carcass was an invitation to a long, brutal night ahead. Every lion in the vicinity would soon get wind of it, and when hunger strikes, alliances crumble. Tonight, there would be war.

I could already picture the battle—the deep roars echoing through the savannah, the piercing growls as challengers lunged forward, claws slashing, teeth bared. Dominant males would defend their claim, while younger ones would strategize, waiting for the right moment to steal a bite.

We stayed a while, watching as tension simmered between the lions, the uneasy silence before the inevitable storm. Then, as the sun continued its relentless descent, we drove away, knowing that Ruaha’s wilderness had yet another untold chapter waiting to unfold in the dead of night.

A Picnic by the River

After an eventful morning filled with thrilling wildlife encounters, we made our way back to the base for lunch—a picnic setup by the river.

Food is more than just a necessity on safari; it’s an experience. And for foreign visitors, it becomes a journey into local flavors, adding another layer of adventure to their trip. Imagine enjoying a meal by the river, surrounded by the wild, with hippos grunting in the distance and crocodiles basking on the banks. It’s the kind of moment that stays with you forever.

As we sat under the shade, plates filled with delicious local cuisine, the river’s gentle flow provided a tranquil backdrop. Every now and then, a hippo would snort loudly, breaking the silence, while a crocodile slid effortlessly into the water, disappearing beneath the surface. It was lunch with a view like no other.

A Pause Before the Evening Drive

After the meal, we allowed ourselves a well-earned rest. The midday sun in Ruaha can be harsh, turning the savannah into a shimmering oven. For two hours, we retreated into the cool shade, letting the heat settle before embarking on our next adventure.

As the afternoon stretched on, we prepared for the evening game drive, knowing that as the sun dipped lower, the wilderness would come alive once more.

The best was yet to come.

An Evening Drive Through Mdonya

As the evening air cooled and the golden hues of the setting sun stretched across the sky, we set off on a smooth drive along the Mdonya route. Having already been up close with Ruaha’s giants—lions, elephants, giraffes, and zebras—it was now time to focus on the smaller, often overlooked wonders of the wild.

This part of the safari was different. It wasn’t about the powerful presence of predators or the awe-inspiring size of elephants. It was about the intricate details—the delicate balance of the ecosystem and the untold stories of the little creatures that call Ruaha home.

As we drove, we spotted Jackals trotting through the grass, their sharp eyes scanning the terrain. A pair of Crisp Sprinklers darted across the road, quick and nimble. Foxes with their sharp ears stood alert, listening to the distant rustle of the savannah.

Among the trees, Hummingbirds hovered effortlessly, their iridescent feathers catching the last rays of the sun. Mongoose darted between rocks, while Greater Kudus moved gracefully through the thickets, their spiraled horns making them one of the most elegant antelopes in the park. Overhead, Red-winged Starlings soared, adding flashes of deep crimson against the dusky sky.

Zakayo, our skilled driver-guide, brought the experience to life, sharing fascinating stories about the wildlife we encountered. His deep knowledge and storytelling turned every sighting into a lesson, every moment into a memory.

The visitors sat back, absorbed in the experience, their faces lit with curiosity and admiration. This was the kind of safari that nourished the soul—an evening of quiet beauty, intricate details, and an appreciation for the smaller, yet equally important, creatures of the wild.

The Magic of Ruaha at Night

As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in hues of orange and purple, we made our way back to base. Dinner awaited us, but so did the true essence of Ruaha at night.

A small bar along the river served as the perfect gathering spot. Here, guides and visitors met over drinks, exchanging stories of the day, sharing experiences from other parks, and discussing the unpredictable beauty of the wild.

The night in Ruaha is unlike any other—the distant calls of lions in the darkness, the occasional snort of a hippo from the river, and the cool breeze carrying the scent of the wilderness.

With laughter, conversations, and the camaraderie of fellow travelers and guides, the day came to a perfect close. Tomorrow would bring new adventures, but for now, Ruaha had worked its magic once again.

A Beautiful Morning in Ruaha

The sun rose over Ruaha’s vast wilderness, painting the sky with soft hues of gold and pink. It was our last day in the park, and with each breath of fresh morning air, we felt the weight of departure creeping in.

We had seen so much—the untamed beauty, the raw encounters, the delicate balance of life in the wild—but Ruaha always leaves you wanting more.

For our final adventure, we had planned a safari breakfast by the river, near the Hondohondo picnic site. There was no better way to say goodbye than by immersing ourselves in the very essence of this park—its landscapes, its wildlife, and its soul-stirring serenity.

A Farewell with Elephants

As we drove through Ruaha’s breathtaking scenery, we spotted something magnificent—a large herd of elephants making their way to the river for a swim. Their graceful yet powerful strides carried them toward the cool waters, and we decided to follow them, eager to witness their morning ritual.

At the river’s edge, they moved with effortless harmony, their giant bodies sinking into the water. Some playfully sprayed themselves with their trunks, while others stood still, simply enjoying the relief from the rising heat. Watching them cool down their heavy bodies in the glistening river was nothing short of mesmerizing—a true display of nature’s grandeur.

On our way, we encountered Kasongo and her family—the ever-entertaining warthogs—dashing across the road, trying to outrun our Land Cruiser. Their tiny legs moved frantically, tails raised high like little flags. It was a sight that made everyone laugh.

Further ahead, an ostrich strutted confidently, its long legs carrying it effortlessly through the savannah, a reminder that Ruaha’s magic lies not just in its predators and giants but in the smaller, everyday wonders too.